Late Season Swell!!

We just had a fantastic late season swell this last week… What a treat. For some reason getting a proper swell after you’ve stripped the wax off of and stored your winter boards is more satisfying than the mid season swells. I guess its probably the lack of expectations and the fact that you gratefully embrace whatever is coming.

This one was even better because it was three straight days of medium to long period swell from 6-7.5 ft. Sure the tides and the wind could have been better aligned, but it came at the end of May. My 6’7″ was packed up and stored away for next fall. I didn’t mind one bit unpacking and rewaxing. I also got to try out my new 6’6″ five fin that I recently finished shaping. I have to say I was very pleased with the way board #6 performed.

Mark and I paddled out at the peak of the swell and surfed for almost 2 straight hours with no one else in the line up. When I got back in I was surprised and stoked to see that my wife had come out and snapped a few photos. Now, you get to enjoy a view of what some of our local secret spots have to offer… Enjoy the photos!